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Backroading California's 'Big South' |
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As I let the Isuzu Amigo idle at a pullout along central California’s Big Sur Coast south of Monterey, a thought occurred to me: Isuzu might want to add a caveat to its mantra at the time “Go farther” mantra. Like, “Go farther, except when …”
I’d spent two days listening to Isuzu officials explain to the automotive media their strategy for securing SUV market share: Be loud. Be heard. Be focused. Lure restless souls with an evocative chant, Go farther … Go farther ... • I’d decided to take their advice, to find that zone called farther. I would spend a day exploring the backroads of Big Sur that spur into the mountains above Highway 1, a region I’d explored extensively in the past in my personal adventurewagon, a Toyota 4Runner. On the morning of my departure, the hazy sea air was still spiced with the smoke of the smoldering Kirk Complex fires, a trio of lightning-caused blazes that had charred almost 85,000 acres in Los Padres National Forest, which encompasses much of inland Big Sur. I was concerned that at least some of the dirt roads that allow more adventurous travelers to trade the traffic on famously spectacular Highway 1 for loftier and more private vistas would be closed.
• Old Coast Road, though narrow and winding, is well-maintained, so I left the Amigo in 2WD. But when washboarding on the uphill segment caused the rear end to swing out, I engaged 4WD with a touch of the dash-mounted button to calm things down.
In the late 1950s, the Bixby Canyon cabin of San Francisco poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti was visited often by Beat Generation luminaries, including On the Road author Jack Kerouac. In the summer of 1960, Kerouac sought refuge at the cabin from the pressures of his growing fame. But the chronic alcoholic couldn’t leave his inner demons behind, and the isolated, wild environs that bring solace to many instead brought drunkenness, paranoia, depression, dementia and a mental breakdown, which Kerouac described in his novel Big Sur. • After the road turned south and away from Bixby Creek, it descended to meandering Sierra Creek, where it was lined with moss-draped trees, ferns and coastal redwoods. I stopped along the creek to savor the sweet forest air. Then the road took me to the crest of the ridge, where I could gaze out at the Pacific Ocean. From there I descended to a pair of single-lane, plank-floored bridges across the Little Sur River, a state-protected waterway that supports spawning steelhead trout and, at its headwaters, Big Sur’s largest redwood forest.
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A couple of miles before I reached the top, I detoured down to the campground at Alder Creek. Gold was found in these parts in 1887, sparking establishment of the town of Mansfield nearby. It had 200 souls, a hotel, post office and five saloons, but fire destroyed it in 1909, and the gold and silver mining in the area ended in 1915. I found only tables and campsites, and too many airborne bugs for comfort, so I decided to turn around. I had a top-of-the-world view at San Martin Top, where I could look south for many miles at waves washing over the rocks, at cars and motor homes inching along the Pacific Rim, at mists drifting in from the sea. Leaning against the Amigo, longing for one of those inspiring Pacific Coast sunsets, I knew that Isuzu was right, that we can, and should, go farther. • |
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All content © 2007 Tony Huegel. Permission to reproduce is denied without written consent. |